Uluru sunset, glass in hand

Then you walk. The Kuniya Walk leads with your guide to Mutitjulu Waterhole, past Aboriginal rock paintings and native plants, and the Cultural Centre comes next. By the time the coach turns back towards the viewing area, you know a little of what the rock means, and the evening feels less like a photo stop and more like the end of a story.

At the viewing area the light does the rest. Drinks and nibbles come out, sparkling, red or white wine, lemonade or orange juice, and you watch the face of Uluru change as the sun sinks behind you. Parks Australia describes the shift from pinkish hues through fluorescent orange to deep shades of red. Then the coach takes you back to your hotel.

Low evening light brings that rust to life. Parks Australia's own description is that the rock shines brightest at the very start and the very end of the day, as the warm low light sets its colours glowing. The official sunset spots were chosen so the last rays land square on the rock, which is why it seems to shift colour while you stand there.

The rock you are looking at is ancient. Its sandstone has existed for roughly half a billion years; the rock stands 348 metres tall and measures 9.4 km round its foot. And it is only the tip: Parks Australia explains that the slab continues underground for up to 6 km, so most of it lies hidden beneath the sand you are standing on.

The sunset itself is the other constant: reviewers describe picture-postcard weather, a glorious scene and sparkling wine that was nicely cold. Some mention that the cheese and wine at the end turned out more generous than they expected, with extras they had not counted on.

The criticisms are useful too. A few guests wished for more time at the Cultural Centre, and the listing's own rating breakdown gives value for money 4.1, below the guide at 4.5 and transportation at 4.7. If you love museums and long visits, consider coming back to the centre on another day.

Summer evenings are long and warm. Parks Australia warns of heat of 30°C or more as a matter of routine and of summer days above 40°C, so the afternoon walk to the waterhole is the hot part of the tour. Drink well, and use the shade at Mutitjulu, which Parks Australia describes as lush and shady around the water.

Winter is the opposite. The middle of the year brings clouds, mist and morning frosts, and on winter nights the thermometer in the park can fall to −7°C, Parks Australia says. The listing recommends packing a jumper, as winter evenings turn cool. Once the sun has gone, you will be glad of it.

Rain changes the waterhole as well. Parks Australia suggests taking the Kuniya walk when it rains, to see the waterfalls that run off the rock. An afternoon that seems spoiled can turn into the most unusual one of your trip.

If the forecast looks bad, keep an eye on the cancellation window. All your money comes back if you cancel 24 hours or more before the start, which gives you room to move it to a better evening while you are still at the resort.

One cost is not part of the tour price. The Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park entry fee is required and is not included, and the listing asks you to buy it beforehand. Parks Australia charges adults $38 for 3 days, while children and teenagers under 18 go free, so families pay only for the adults.

You can buy the pass online, print it or save it to your phone; at the gate you keep left and hold the pass's code to the scanner. A quarter of what you pay supports Anangu homelands, training and business development, which makes it a fee worth paying.

Some places must not be photographed at all. At culturally sensitive sites the rock details are equivalent to sacred scripture for Anangu, and taking any photos of them is prohibited; such sites are clearly identified by signs. On the walk to the waterhole, follow your guide's lead and the signs.

Leave the drone at home: drones are prohibited in the national park under the EPBC Act, and penalties apply. And always ask before photographing Anangu, as Parks Australia requests. Our photography page explains the north-east face and the best spots for a tripod.

Add the things Parks Australia recommends for any walk in the park: a broad-brimmed hat and sunscreen, and a head net against flies and other insects. On a day with flies, a cheap net makes the waterhole far more pleasant.

Bring your park pass on your phone, a camera with a charged battery, and a light bag you can carry on the walk. The drinks and nibbles at sunset are included, so there is no need to pack your own picnic for this evening.

The walk is a living cultural landscape. Here the rock tells a creation story of a fight to the death between Kuniya, a woma python woman, and Liru, a venomous brown snake man. Hearing it beside the water, with the rock rising above you, is very different from reading it later.

Parks Australia notes that the waterhole is one of the park's busiest locations but is often quiet at sunrise, sunset and lunchtime. On an afternoon tour you will share it with others, so take a moment on the bench, close your eyes and listen to the birds before the group moves on.

For the classic shot, drive to the very end of the car park and set up near the fence in the sandy area, arriving early to get a good spot. Note that the car area has no water and no toilets, so prepare at the resort.

The coach area nearby is reserved for buses after 4.00 pm, so drivers stay in the car area. Without a car, there are no taxis around the park, but bus tours and a hop on hop off pass are available. For a first evening, the guided tour saves you the planning and adds the waterhole and the stories.

The caveats are plain. The park entry fee is extra. The sunset viewing areas are shared with other tours, and the group travels by coach, not in a small van. Guides speak English only on this listing. And reviewers score value for money at 4.1, lower than the guide and the transport.

If you want only the sunset, a shorter run is cheaper; if you want dinner under the stars, a barbecue evening keeps you out longer. For an afternoon that explains the rock before it lights up, this is the evening to book, and cancelling stays free until 24 hours before.